Thursday, July 31, 2008

A Summertime Hike Into A Wilderness Canyon

During the week of July 21, I backpacked for four days into a wilderness canyon in southeast Utah. I was traveling with four of my best friends and we saw some pretty amazing things. Below are a few photos from the trip. Of course, photo's cannot capture the real beauty of a place but they can give a sense for the flavor of how life must have been for our Anasazi ancestors over 800 years ago. Enjoy the ride!

Wow - check out this huge alcove carved out of the sides of the canyon walls. Sites like this were ideal for habitation and rock art.

Here John is observing one of the best rock art panels I have ever seen in the whole southwest. The Anasazi used rock pigments mixed with organic substances to "fix" the images on the canyon walls. What they stand for we can only guess but to visit such a site is a remarkable experience.

These pictographs are perfectly preserved after 800 years. Whatever material was used to denote the head has weathered away leaving these ghostly, headless figures.

We moved to another of the seemingly endless alcoves. The scenery was surreal - a world unto itself and set within the outer world.

Here we found a fantastic ruined house. It had a split-level design and much of the roof was still intact. We were in awe.

The inhabitants had left their "signature" on the wall behind the house. It says, "I was here but you are now. Enjoy the ride".

Here's a view from above the house looking out to our camp across the way. It was wonderfully eerie to think that others had experienced this view over 800 years ago. What did they think? Did they have any idea that the earth is 25,000 miles in circumference?

The evidence was everywhere that these people left their home relatively quickly. Ancient corn cobs and pottery was everywhere. It means so much more when it is just left here in its rightful place.

I looked closely at the end of one of the roof beams. There in front of me was the evidence that someone had chopped down this tree with a stone axe - the scars were clearly visible. The center part of the wood had not been chopped, rather it looked like the people had pushed over the tree at the last moment to make the final break. On the other side of this log was the cork-filled hole where a dendrochronologist had made a determination for the exact year that the tree had been felled. Amazing.

Monday, June 30, 2008

I've Been Blogged!

I recently traveled on a GrandLuxe Rail journey giving lectures from Albuquerque to Grand Canyon. One of my fellow passengers, Ruth Mitchell, wrote about me on her blog, which you can find at: http://www.buyoutsidethebox.com/blog/ You can follow along with Ruth on the rest of her journey to Yellowstone. Here is what she shared about the Grand Canyon experience:

SATURDAY, JUNE 28, 2008

Day 3 Grand Rail Luxe Journey - Grand Canyon

It's been a wonderful day. We drove right up the edge of the Grand Canyon in the train, and took a tour with Wayne Ranney, a geologist who had been traveling with us and lecturing since we left Albuquerque. He is very knowledgeable, so it was a real treat to tour some of the highlights of the South Rim with him. We purchased his book, Carving Grand Canyon, and I look forward to reading it as he was such a delightful tour guide.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Green Green Coastal Alaska!

It's been a few years since I visited southeast Alaska and I had almost forgotten just how green it is! This was a trip on the Lindblad/National Geographic Sea Lion, one of the ships I used to work on. I was lecturing as a Study Leader for Smithsonian Journeys. There were 23 wonderful and gracious Smithsonian travelers but the entire ship manifest listed 54 passengers. It was great to come back to this part of the world.


Our first stop was at the Eagle Recovery Center in Sitka, where injured eagles are rehabilitated for release into the wild

A look at one of the twelve totem poles at Sitka National Historic Park

Sunset at 10:30 PM near the Pacific Ocean entrance to the Sitka area

The beauty of George Island, another section of southeast Alaska very close to the open waters of the Pacific Ocean


Mossy tree branches. Everything is so green!





















We saw many brown bears on this trip. Their populations seem to be doing quite well here.

A colorful garage with fishing gear in Petersburg





Reflections in the harbor at Petersburg. Sons of Norway Hall




Trails in southeast Alaska are built of planks and are quite pleasant to walk on





The Marguerite Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park!





After entering the Endicott Arm, we began seeing blue icebergs!





In the not too distant past, this U-shaped valley contained a glacier







This is the Dawes Glacier in Endicott Arm




We saw a calving of the glacier and here you can see the big splash from the ice fall. The height of the ice is almost 180 feet!







Here's a picture of one of our zodiacs cruising in the icebergs





And a look at the Sea Lion in Endicott Arm

In Juneau, the capital of Alaska, we arrived at the end of our trip during the famous "Celebration", when the Native people parade downtown. This man was way into it!

And a close-up of his face

Friday, May 23, 2008

The Continuing Controversy Over the Age of the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon has been in the national spotlight recently regarding its enigmatic age. In February, three workers published a paper in Science stating that some portions of the canyon may be as old as 17 million years. (You would have thought that they had proposed that the Grand Canyon didn't actually exist from the way some geologists responded to the news). And just this month, another set of workers independently reported in the GSA Bulletin that portions of the canyon might be as old as 50 million years. The oft-repeated age of the Grand Canyon is set at 6 million years. Why do such varying ages keep cropping up?

First of all, where does the 6 million year old date come from? That is the age of the youngest part of the Hualapai Limestone Member of the Muddy Creek Formation. Exposed at the base of the Grand Wash Cliffs, this unit does not contain material derived from the modern Colorado River. This means that the river as we know it today, was not contributing (much) material to the Hualapai Limestone and that the river must be less than 6 million years. We define the modern river as one that flows out of the Grand Wash Cliffs towards the Gulf of California.

Many geologists have used this criteria to establish an age for the Grand Canyon as well, for without the river there would be no Grand Canyon. However, is it possible to have had some portion of the Grand Canyon in existence before the modern river came into being? This seems entirely possible to me since it would be quite unreasonable to assume that the canyon appeared in an instant upon the landscape. It may be a bit of a stretch then to use the same criteria for the beginning of the modern river, to that for the beginning of the canyon. Compounding the problem is that no one actually states how the beginning of the Grand Canyon should be defined. Is the beginning of the canyon the same as the beginning of the river? (If so, does that take into consideration that the modern river is an evolved descendent from some earlier river?). Or is the beginning of the canyon defined by some other criteria? Like the initial exposure of the Kaibab Limestone (rim rock) by river erosion. There are even more possibilities that could define the beginning of the Grand Canyon - an earlier canyon in the same place but into strata now completely eroded away, etc.

The modern Colorado River is believed by some to have been cobbled together from separate and distinct prior river systems. The evidence from the Hualapai Limestone Member reflects the moment in time when these separate systems were finally integrated. This integration could have been from stream capture by headward erosion, overspill from ancient lakes, or some combination of the two. In any event, these prior systems must have cut into the landscape to some extent and I believe that the recent works pick up on this idea. In this way, we could admit that parts of the Grand Canyon (both laterally and vertically) were in existence prior to 6 million years ago, while still accepting that the modern Colorado River only came into being after 6 million years ago. In this way, an older version of the canyon and a younger version of the river are both possible.

As so often is the case in any human endeavor, miscommunication, misunderstanding, and the misreading of ideas ultimately leads to the very human trait of creating conflict where in fact none may actually exist. Geologists are remiss to not have fully defined the many different aspects of this debate. And they have not given names to the prior landscape elements that may have existed. (For example, an older version of the canyon, before the modern river was in existence, could be called a proto-Grand Canyon). When specific definitions are given and explained, a clearer understanding of the possibilities emerge. My view is that portions of the canyon were in place before 6 million years ago and the new research supports this view although I still accept that the modern river is only 6 million years old.

I am reminded of an example given in "Carving Grand Canyon" (page 99, second to last paragraph):

"Deciphering the history of the Grand Canyon is similar to the story of how the three blind men describe the elephant that they can touch but cannot see. Each speaks the truth for that part of the animal that they happen to touch, but their descriptions sound as if they are describing three different animals".

This "controversy" too then, is an example of geologists describing parts of the canyon but perhaps not the whole.

Comments welcome. More later.

Wayne Ranney, Geologist

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Off to London - Trip over.

Today we are flying back to London for the night. The trip is over! I'll be in Flagstaff (with luck) on Friday night. Keep looking here for other blogs from Arizona. Thanks for reading.

Uganda

Colorful Uganda! What a welcome we received. This woman was part of a colorful dance troop that greeted us at the airport. Each African country has its own flavor and the people of Uganda seem very easy going and happy. Contrast that with what most of us know of the country, a certain person named Idi Amin. Strange how such tiny bits of information tend to keep us from really knowing the depth and breadth of things.

Check out this hippopotamus in its very own private pool! We traveled to the far western end of Uganda to Queen Elizabeth National Park to see the wildlife here. Unfortunately, we learned that these hippo's are subjected to poaching by some of the locals and there are guards of rangers that patrol these pools at night.

A close-up view. They are amazing!

At another location we saw this encounter when one male tried to get in the water with the harem of the dominant male. The dominate male would have no part of it and came out the water to chase down the interloper. A fast paced chase ensued. The hippo is considered one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and people die all the time from their encounters with them. They are extremely fast for large animals.

Wildlife and People in Tanzania and Ngorongoro Crater

Next on the trip was a stop in one of my favorite countries, Tanzania. The people are very friendly and I love learning words in the Swahili language (surprisingly easy).

This first view is of the East African Rift during a rain storm. This faulted rift is hugely responsible for the drying out of east Africa in the last few million years, a geologic event that caused a certain species of primate to adapt and change - the cradle of humanity exists here.

Zebra in Ngorongoro Crater.

A warthog.

Elephants.

A lion on the hunt. I always encourage my friends who have pre-teen children to come on safari in Africa. It is so amazing to see this wildlife in its native habitat. Despite fears in the US, Africa is a friendly and easy continent to visit. Seeing this splendor is a life altering experience and one that children can keep as a memory forever!

Next we visited a Maasai village and saw these colorfully dressed women in a dance.

The maasai men and known worldwide as tremendous jumpers and during the dance we saw them perform. Amazing!

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Victoria Falls!

This is truly one of the remarkable places on Earth! (I guess that's why it is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World). By the way, the others are: Grand Canyon; Paricutin Volcano; the Northern Lights; Great Barrier Reef; the harbor at Rio de Janeiro; and Mt. Everest. I have been to them all except that tiny volcano in Mexico.

Here's a view from the helicopter looking downstream. The vapor, or "the Smoke that Thunders" is clearly visible.

Another view that shows some previous geologic locations of the falls. Each gorge (on the right) is an old lip of the falls. You may be able to detect the location of the next falls by the way the water shimmers in a line just above the present falls (left). Fantastic eh!

We visited the falls at the end of a very wet rainy season and the amount of water flowing down was stupendous.

Look at how wide the Zambesi River is above the falls and then how narrow and engorged it becomes below the falls. We took a scenic boat cruise on the upstream section and saw many wading hippo's in the water.

Here's a closer view from the ground of the Eastern Cataract on the Zambian side of the border (the river is the international boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe). In the dry season, this section of the falls is often completely dry.

Madagascar's Spiny Desert and Lemurs

My trip continued into Madagascar, truly one of the most unique places on earth. I learned in previous visits that most people here practice a form of ancestor worship. On this trip it was told that in some tribes all material possessions upon death are placed within the hut and burned! There is no descendency of wealth to the children. This was a completely foreign concept to some of my fellow travelers, who saw it only as a waste of resources. It did make some sense to me since I commonly witness people in my culture who's experiences cause them to have a complete lack of appreciation for money won with hard work. The Malagasy culture never ceases to surprise me. The lemurs were great too. Here's a few pictures of the unique desert and the lemurs.

Madagascar's Spiny Desert

One of the dominant plants is Didera, something akin to our ocotillo but different.

Madagascar has received a lot rain recently and the Didera was leafed out big time.

The ringtail lemur!

Here's another one with its young nearby.

This ringtail lemur loved eating the pads of the prickly pear cactus (introduced).

This lemur is called a Sifaka and truly is a gem to watch on the trees. However.....

They do come down to the ground to cross an open patch in the forest and they do this lovely little waltz on only two legs!